Home >

Basic Rule Of Low Waist Leather Shoes Design

2013/4/15 17:26:00 25

Low WaistLeather ShoesSampleDesignRule

< p > men's low waist > a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_x.asp" > leather shoes < /a > the basic rule of design. Men's low waist leather shoes are of common styles: three head inner ear type and outer ear type, prime head inner ear type and outer ear type, horizontal bar tongue type, whole tongue type, rubber band type, tripping belt type and so on.

Its components are: front cover, front band, shoe ears, shoe tongue, stripe, Baotou, middle Gang, waist band, rubber band, rear gang and outsourcing etc.

< /p >


< p > the upper face of the upper is long, and it belongs to the deep shoe upper. The length of the shoe face is generally controlled within the 10L range of Cx point or Cx point.

< /p >


< p > mouth door type: open type dark door, such as external ear type, whole tongue type, rubber band type, tripping belt type, closed type open door, such as inner ear type, horizontal bar tongue type and so on.

The position of the upper door Qy is represented by the gate length J1Fx and the gate width FxQy.

The Qy of the gate location is usually located near the Q. point of the front control line F0E1, which can be 3L, 5L, and backward 15L under Q.

The location of the mouth length Fx can be changed at F0 point or within the range of 15L after F0 point; male 25# < a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_x.asp" > leather shoes < /a > gate width FxQy is about 35 ~ 42L.

Male 25# leather shoes lateral ankle high B1Bx is 45 ~ 49L.

Male 25# leather shoes, the seam height A1Ax is 61 ~ 65L.

< /p >


Less than P, there are two kinds of contour lines, which are straight and straight, with more curves and more regular shapes.

Between the point Cx of the shoe face length position and the Bx position of the outer ankle joint, the radius 40L is the arc. If the shoe face length position point Cx moves 5 to 7L, the radius of the arc will increase to about 53L. The position of the middle seam height point Ax and the lateral malleolus position point Bx are the outer string curves of 3L.

If the contour of the back line is straight, the height of the outer ankle can be a little higher, about 48 ~ 50L.

< /p >


< p > the design of the shoe interior is usually made of three segments, that is, the front cloth, the back of the leather (usually no back seam), the middle ear or the shoe tongue.

In order to facilitate the practice of cutting and saving raw materials, the back pads are usually broken off at the heel, and are divided into the back and middle pears (mostly substitute materials) and the back pack and the leather (natural leather).

< /p >


< p > women's low waist leather shoes are of the following styles: shallow mouth type, belt type (including belt type and one side type), shallow mouth type, horizontal bar tongue type, whole tongue type, rubber band type, middle slit type (or front opening type), etc.

The components are: front cover, front band, tongue, stripe, shoe ear, shoelace, rubber band and so on. The components are less than men's shoes.

< /p >


< p > the main feature is that the shoe face is shorter, and can be divided into two types: shallow and deep. The shallow upper is the female shallow leather shoes. The length of the shoe face is the length of the mouth door. The length of the shoe upper of the deep upper is usually within the range of 10 to 15L of the Cx point.

< /p >


< p > women's low waist > a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_x.asp" > leather shoes < /a > mouth door type: open type open door, such as shallow mouth type, area type; open type dark door, such as belt type, outer ear type, whole tongue type, rubber type, middle slotted type, closed type open door, such as inner ear type, horizontal bar tongue type and so on, therefore, mouth type is more than men's leather shoes.

< /p >


< p > the mouth gate has a large change in position, and it can be divided into two types: shallow and deep.

The location of shallow gate Qy is usually located in front of QQ or QQ at F0E1 of the front control line; 5L is located behind QQ or QQ.

The length of the shallow mouth door Fx is located in the front 5 to 15L range of the front camber marking point F0; the length of the deep mouth gate Fx is mostly in the front palm marking point F0 or behind the F0 point in the range of 3 to 5L.

The width of the gate FxQy is usually equal to the F0E1 of the front control line, or the range from 3 to 5L and 2 to 4L above the q.

The leather shoes of female 23# shoes are B1Bx high in the range of 42 ~ 46L.

The height of the seam is 23# A1Ax in the range of 55 ~ 59L.

Women's low waist leather shoes are mostly straight lines.

< /p >


< p > the design of shoe lining is mostly a two stage structure, that is, the front part of the cloth (commonly used substitute material), and the latter for leather (usually no back seam).

Sometimes there will be a three segment structure, that is, a pair of shoes or ears and shoes, and then, like men's shoes, will be disconnected from the heel of the back, and divided into the middle and the back, the leather and the back.

< /p >


< p > male three knot 25# (two half) leather shoe last, last bottom long 270L, last metatarsal 239.5L, release allowance 25L.

Adhesive technology, cattle full grain leather, with a height of 20 to 30L.

< /p >


< p > three head inner ear leather shoes are the most representative styles of men's low waist leather shoes. They are characterized by their steady style, elegant appearance, sharp shape, uneasy deformation, easy to match with clothes, and suitable for wear throughout the year, which is a leather shoe specially loved by middle-aged and old consumers.

< /p >


< p > > one mark "three points and one line" < /p >.


< p > two parts calculation and positioning < /p >


< p > < < a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_x.asp > > the upper is < /a > the parts are divided into four parts: Baotou, middle Gang, rear shoes ears and shoe tongue.

There are eight positioning points. They are the length of the front, the length of the Baotou, the length of the middle point, the width of the door, the length of the front wings, the width of the two wings, the height of the outer ankle, the height of the back seam, and the location of the length and width of the tongue.

< /p >


< p > the location of shoe face, Baotou, middle band and shoe ears is not only calculated according to the length of the last bottom, but also the length of the whole shoe face can be divided into five equal parts, according to the rule of Baotou long: the length of the shoes: the length of the shoe ears is =2: 1: 2, of which two are slightly stronger in Baotou, and two in the rear shoes.

< /p >


< p > 1. length of upper upper: length of shoe upper = bottom last length * 66%=270L * 0.66=178L < /p >


< p > 2. Baotou length point: Baotou length = last bottom sample length * 27%=270L * 0.27=73L < /p >


< p > 3. door length points: mouth length = last bottom length * 40%=270L * 0.40=108L < /p >


< p > 4. gate width point: calculation method: mouth width = last metatarsal * 16%=239.5L * 0.16=38L < /p >


< p > empirical method: the midpoint of the lateral ankle width of the last surface is < /p >.


< p > 5. the length of two wings: two wings long = last bottom long * 28%=270L * 0.28=76L < /p >


< p > 6. high point of lateral malleolus: lateral ankle height = foot length * 18%=250L * 0.18=45L < /p >


< p > the B1Bx of the external malleolus is B1Bx, and the thickness of various materials is the actual size of the shoe. The total thickness of the material is about 4~5L, so the actual data should be 49L.

< /p >


< p > B point position =22.5% foot length - posterior tolerance < /p >


< p > 7.: the height of the seam: the seam height = the foot length * 23%=250L * 0.23=57.5L < /p >


The A1Ax height of the back seam calculated by < p > is a net dimension, which is quite different from the actual size of the shoe, mainly due to the thickness of the material.

If the thickness of the material is about 3~4L, the actual data of the shoe should be 60~61L.

< /p >


< p > 8. shoe eye location: parallel to the 13L line along the shoe ears, four eyes or five eyes < /p >


< p > 9. tongue width point: width is two times of the shoe eye position, 26L from the edge of the ear, and the front end is narrower than the rear end 5L.

< /p >


< p > 10. tongue length point: beyond the rear end of the shoe, about 5 to 10L < /p >


< p > 11. shoes ear false line position: the rear end is in the width of shoe tongue position, the front end is at the middle point of the door arc < /p >.


< p > 12.: 10 ~ 12L wide, 20 ~ 22L < /p >.


< p style= "MARGIN-TOP: 0pt"; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt "class=" P0 "> span style=" font-family: "style="; "


< p > three depicting the outline of parts < /p >.


< p > 1. the contour lines of Baotou and the mouth gate should be perpendicular to each other at the intersection with the midline.

< /p >


After P > 2., the intersection of the upper and the back arcs should be perpendicular to each other.

< /p >


< p > 3. circles should be coordinated with the arc of the rear end of the shoe ear. Usually the arc of the rear end of the shoe ear is larger than that of the corner of the door.

< /p >


< p > 4. the shoe ears should be finely placed not less than 20L, and the arc line between the rear end of the shoe ear and the high point of the external ankle should be handled properly and not too high.

< /p >


< p > 5. the Baotou line should be straight and its lower edge points should not be bent forward or backward.

< /p >


< p > 6. although the shoe tongue is covered by the shoe ears, the outline of the shoe tongue should be drawn.

< /p >


< p > 7. shoe eye position must be indicated accurately by intersection points, or can be represented by circles.

< /p >


< p > 8., because the size of the design is different from the actual size of the shoe, and the line will undergo partial displacement after it is stretched. Therefore, the possible displacement should be taken into account when drawing.

< /p >


< p > four producing seed template < /p >


< p > 1. exposing paper > /p >


< p > 2. leveling treatment < /p >


< p > 3. producing seed template < /p >


< p > (1) add the weight of the bandage: the front tip is 12 to 13L, the waist is 16 to 17L, followed by 15~16L < /p >


< p > (2) differential treatment of the medial and lateral malleolus along the bottom edge: anterior adduction 2 ~ 3L, posterior internal putting 5 ~ 8L < /p >


< p > (3) after the treatment of the upper and lower medial and lateral malleolus: the lateral malleolus was elevated 2 to 3L < /p > the medial malleolus.


< p > 4. separating seed template < /p >


< p > (1) piercing method < /p >.


< p > (2) duplication method < /p >


< p > (3) decomposition method < /p >


< p > five, making standard template < /p >


< p > after separation, the seed template has been processed by cropping and internal and external ankle differential treatment without adding the allowance of the amount of hem, amount of stubble and the amount of stitching, because the template is the standard for making the flanging template and the blanking template, so it is called the standard template.

< /p >


< p > standard template is the key template in leather shoes structure design, and its production is the key and difficult point in sample making.

The production of standard templates mainly includes two aspects: curling treatment and differential treatment of internal and external malleolus.

< /p >


< p > 1. Baotou model < /p >


< p > (1) curling treatment < /p >


< p > (2) the difference between medial and lateral malleolus < /p >


< p > 2., Chinese model < /p >.


< p > (1) curling treatment < /p >


< p > (2) the difference between medial and lateral malleolus < /p >


Less than P > 3., the shoes ear template "/p >.


< p > (1) curling treatment < /p >


< p > (2) the difference between medial and lateral malleolus < /p >


< p > 4. shoe tongue template < /p >


< p > 5., insurance skin template < /p >


< p > 6. points for attention and requirements < /p >


< p > (1) all models must have a central line marking point, and the rear shoe ear template shall have shoe eyes and false line marking points.

< /p >


< p > (2) all models of medial malleolus must be cut to show the difference. The cut should be located along the bottom edge.

< /p >


< p > (3) when cutting the template, we should cut it strictly according to the contour line, and avoid enlarging or reducing it.

< /p >


< p > (4) standard samples should be carefully inspected after completion.

The method of examination can be compared with the method of last, and the key points should be checked for the front part, the middle part of the seam and the difference between the inside and outside ankle.

You can check the correctness of the standard template again according to the seed template.

< /p >


< p > six, making the flanging template < /p >.


< p > (1) making method < /p >


< p > 1. Baotou model < /p >


< p > 2., Chinese model < /p >.


Less than P > 3., the shoes ear template "/p >.


< p > 4. shoe tongue template < /p >


< p > (two) requires < /p >.


< p > 1. there must be various signs and marking lines on the hem pattern.

< /p >


< p > 1. There should be a central line marking point < /p > in the Baotou model.


< p > 2. There should be a central line marking point and a stubble mark line < /p > in Baotou.


< p > 3. There should be a stubble mark line, a shoe eye location mark and a false line mark line for the rear shoe ears template, /p.


< p > the shoe tongue template should have a central line marking point and a stubble mark line that is stitched with the middle bar < /p >.


< p > 2. the template of each part should be marked with the hem pattern, and the cut should be cut on the model of the medial malleolus.

< /p >


< p > seven, making the blanking template < /p >.


< p > the blanking template is based on the flanging template, giving out the flanged volume sample, that is, the sample used for blanking.

Therefore, the blanking sample does not need to point out all kinds of marking points and marking lines.

< /p >


< p > from the structure of the three inner ear leather shoes, the Baotou, middle and back shoes need to be hem, and the general hem is 4 to 5L.

Therefore, in Baotou, the hem of the model Baotou line is the Baotou blanking template, and the hem of the Chinese side hem model and the two wings contour line are the middle and auxiliary blanking model. The back edge of the back edge of the shoe hem and the folding edge of the shoe's helix outline are the model of the rear shoe ears.

< /p >


< p > if the sides of the tongue and the back end need to fold, the flanging amount is shown on the sides of the tongue flanges and the back end contour lines, which is the shoe tongue blanking template. If the sides of the tongue and the back end do not need to fold, the shoe tongue blanking template is the same as the hem pattern.

< /p >


< p > up to now, the design and manufacture of the three head inner ear shoe shoe side pattern has been completed.

However, we should pay attention to the following: we should make a careful examination of the various models before making follow-up work, and find and correct mistakes in time.

< /p >

  • Related reading

Designer Mark: You Can'T Have Both Fish And Bear'S Paw.

Design Frontiers
|
2013/4/12 18:51:00
42

Guo Pei, The First Person In China'S Advanced Customization, Talks About The Unknown Story Behind The Advanced Customization.

Design Frontiers
|
2013/4/12 13:48:00
111

The Same Sex Fashion Designer Ended His 28 Year Long Run And Got Married.

Design Frontiers
|
2013/3/28 9:11:00
18

Top Ten Fashion Designers In The World

Design Frontiers
|
2013/3/22 15:37:00
25

Genius Is Overflowing With French Designer John Galiano (John Galliano).

Design Frontiers
|
2013/3/12 16:06:00
62
Read the next article

Foreign Cotton Prices Down 2013 Year Storage Policy Expectations

With the drop in the price of cotton and the increase in internal and external spreads, exports: in the first quarter, the export of textile and clothing increased by 15.76% year-on-year. In March, the growth rate dropped to -11.01%. The data in 1, 2 and March have always fluctuated, and the trend of weak recovery in the industry has not changed since 2013. Domestic sales: in March, 50 clothing sales growth figures fell year by year, compared with the 1-2 month change is the price rise and fall.