Selection Techniques For Sewing Stitches Of Clothing
What we usually say
sewing
It means stitching a piece of clothing together or embroidering a decorative pattern on the surface of the garment.
In order to achieve the perfect sewing effect, in addition to requiring the sewing machine itself to perform well and the operator skilled, it is also necessary to match the three specifications of stitches, sutures and sewing materials.
Sewing needle is an important sewing machine for sewing machine. There are hundreds of varieties of machine needles in China.
The working nature of the machine determines the selection of machine needles. Different types of machines should be equipped with different types of machine needles, such as sewing machines, using 96 '1 or 88' 1 machine needles, and sewing machines using L8 '1 type machine needles.
No matter which type of machine, the sewing process should be based on the properties and thickness of the sewing material to select the specifications of the needle, that is, the needle number.
Generally speaking, the needles used for textile and knitwear are all conical in shape. When sewing leather and similar sewing materials, special shape needles, such as spear tips, diamond tips and reverse twist tips, are adopted to increase the strength of machine needles and achieve good sewing effect.
The selection of needle is as follows:
1. when considering the strength of the needle itself, use the smaller needle as far as possible.
2. the puncture resistance of thick material is large. To prevent broken needles, a thicker machine needle should be selected. The thicker machine needles are not easy to stab the coarser seam fiber.
3. the puncture resistance of the thin material is small. In order to prevent the stitch from appearing the needle hole and affect the appearance of the sewing material, a relatively fine machine needle can be selected.
4, the stitches should be smooth, without sharp needles, and the pinpoint is blunt, so as to prevent damage to the fibers.
When the specifications of the stitches are selected, the suture is chosen again.
The stitches are blunt cotton, polyester cotton,
Blending
Polyester and rayon and so on are generally twisted into two strands, three strands, four strands and six strands of single yarn. The direction of twisting can be divided into two types: S twist and Z twist.
The Z sewing thread is commonly used for the sewing machine, and the S twister with good quality can also be applied to other sewing machines.
Cotton sewing thread has good sewing performance, but it shrinks more than synthetic fiber when washing. Its strength, chemical resistance and wear resistance are worse than synthetic fiber. High quality mercerized cotton yarn is expensive, so cotton sewing thread is rarely used now.
The staple fiber polyester sewing thread has low cost, good stitching stability, durability and sew ability, so it is suitable for all conventional garment sewing.
The sewing thread used for the sewing machine is generally cotton thread, but because of the high cost of cotton fiber at present, it is usually replaced by polyester cotton yarn.
When selecting the thickness of sutures, the use of sewing threads should be considered first.
1. the lock type stitch sewing machine has a limited volume of spindle core. The sewing thread can be used to accommodate longer sewing threads, saving shuttle time and achieving high work efficiency.
2. the stitch thread is small in size and feels good in chain sewing.
3. the stitching thread has little space to sewn, and causes less fabric deformation and crease.
4. small sewing yards can be used for sewing threads to avoid needle holes.
5. the slit sewing thread can also reduce the outstanding seam marks and cause them to fall into the inner surface of the fabric and reduce the effect of wear.
In the sewing process, we must ensure that the three specifications of stitches, sutures and seams match to form the correct stitches.
The table lists the matching conditions for sewing stitches, sutures and sewing materials of common sewing machines.
In addition, 1., in the sewing process, we should consider the twist of sutures. The purpose of suture twisting is to increase strength and elasticity. But if the twist is too large, the stitch will affect the normal formation of the wire ring. Generally, 1 meters long suture should grab the two Rui of the line to make it close. The number of natural torsion circles of the two strand should not be greater than 6, otherwise it will produce fault of the needle.
2. when sewing, it is necessary to use thin needles if sewing materials are thin and soft. At the same time, the pick-up rate of machine needles should be increased, because the friction between stitches and sewing materials is small. If the distance between the stitches is not changed, the width of the face line will be reduced.
If the fabric is rough, the opposite is true.
This requires the adjustment of the relative position of the hooked line and the machine needle.
In the process of garment selection
Suture stitch
Looking at it is a very simple question. In fact, it is not the same. Not only to meet the technical requirements, but also to take into consideration the aesthetic requirements, from the color matching of stitches and slits, and the fineness of the stitches to consider various aspects, in order to achieve a more perfect effect.
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